Refreshing to read this from someone else other than the few of us BIPOC always making the demand to open up spaces, to let others speak, to hear from experiences from abroad. We tried in 2017 when we had the conversation about raw-milk with people from Cuba, the Balkans, and elsewhere in the "periphery". We spoke about the situation in our countries and for a global fight. However, even then Slow Food used us as props to elevate their standing. I despise the organization. As for you, for me the best moments were in the fringe, with people who share values and move away from national definitions. I would love to see a meeting of the rest, but that would only be possible if the conversation also includes people from all corners, not only in English-language, and with a real opportunity for people to transport their cheeses from many places for others to try.
Carlos, it saddens me to hear about that experience. I had higher expectations for Slow Food. I have never been in Bra but maybe that event has run its course and it's time to move on to some other event. Still, I think we all need to tell Slow Food to move to the 21st century!
You're onto something here, and I'm thankful that you've been able to put words to it. I even attempted to get into the mess of Slow Food in a recent piece of my own, referencing the elitist culture of the organization and the tendency of Slow Food to push producers into supplying that which they've deemed "worthy" to market to their moneyed networks, despite regional limitations. They aren't working to preserve all foodways, but merely those in their narrow framework.
Or at least that's how it appears on the ground here in Missouri, where I've dealt with our local chapter. Having dealt with them on the commerce end a couple times now, I've gotten a burr about it too. The gastronationalism is pretty pervasive when there's so much more worth preserving. They're pushing chicory here when we have fewer and fewer sorghum mills operating in Missouri.
Hi Cheese Horse, I'll start by saying I'm actually really glad someone is opening this type of dialogue. For a few years now I've been keeping a notebook of thoughts surrounding cheesemaking that just didn't sit well with me. With no appropriate outlet - I thought it was a "just me" scenario stemming from conversations on AOP/DOP status protections, brand censorship, feminism, privilege, gatekeeping & the politics of guerrilla cheesemaking... A real mixed bag that's sparking ideas for a disgruntled cheese themed zine (but don't have the spoons for right now). For now the geographic isolation will hold such things to the username @wheys_of_sedition welcome aboard.
Thank you, I am glad to give voice to what appears to be a shared sentiment. I encourage you to use your voice in whatever way feels right. I am trying to be careful about where I put my energy, and am not sure that posts like this will become regular. But i’m happy to have an outlet.
Thank you for articulating the nuance at the center of conversations about tradition and authenticity. It's a tricky notion, and there is for sure a line between preserving "old ways" and tipping into the sort of nationalism that can poison the well of even the well-meaning. I was recently targeted by someone claiming to be an Icelandic cheese expert who said I had no business calling what I make "skyr." While I understand folks being protective of their cultural heritage, it does not feel like a productive use of energetic resources to accuse a small producer like myself for co-opting a culinary legacy that has already largely been diluted and mainstreamed by much bigger businesses. The waters are very muddy about this. I do not claim to make anything that would be considered "authentic" by an Icelandic person but neither do I feel that I must change the nomenclature of my product in order to preserve some rather subjective standard of purity. Name protection has done as much harm as it has done good, as it has suffocated innovation and fetishized an old way of doing things that does not necessarily jive with current lifestyles, culture, geopolitics. There is no clear answer, but I'm glad you're delving into these matters with an open heart and mind.
Trevor - for me too, that moment with Peter Dixon and Anton Sutterlüty (and Rachel Fritz Schaal, and Sue Miller... men mentioning only men) was the cherished impromptu highlight of this year's Slow Food Cheese in Bra. I couldn't agree more with your criticism (and I hear you, Carlos!). At the same time, the movement and this event allow for those moments to happen, and I feel it is up to all of us to make good use of those opportunities. As co-organizer of a (much smaller) event modelled on Bra n (Cheese Berlin), I also have to acknowledge (and don't get me wrong, this is not an excuse!!) how difficult it is to a) make financial ends meet without being taken over by corporate money, and b) convince cheesemakers to participate, that is to find precious, often non-existing free time and money to do this. Which of course does not, not at all, excuse or even explain the off-putting over-representation and involvement of Italian speaking, male, white individuals of a certain age in Bra. Keep riding and kicking.
Even here in the Philippines, it appears to me (I’m a foreigner, mind you) that the local slow food movement is quite elitist. We enquired about joining but the entry price was too high. I see pictures of their events and they all seem to be well-off older ladies who I imagine have very little to do with growing food themselves, more of a social gathering. Saying that though, they do seem to be doing important work in promoting local food traditions which are sadly dying off. Certainly needs to be less elitist for sure.
Asking with genuine curiosity: wouldn’t a cheese event in Italy naturally have more Italian cheeses represented? As I’m sure an Aussie event would have more Aussie cheeses, etc. I’m curious as to what barriers prevent others from participating in these slow food events?
of course. The main barrier as I see it is economic. If Slow Food wants a REAL international event, they should figure out ways/conditions to have people from all over the world to be able to attend. For example, there are Slow Food chapters in every country. They could figure a way to pay for producers that cannot afford the trip, stand, amount of free samples, expenses, etc... I think the problem is not that there is a cheese event in Italy that presents only Italian cheeses. The problem is that they pretend to be international and open, but they aren't.
Refreshing to read this from someone else other than the few of us BIPOC always making the demand to open up spaces, to let others speak, to hear from experiences from abroad. We tried in 2017 when we had the conversation about raw-milk with people from Cuba, the Balkans, and elsewhere in the "periphery". We spoke about the situation in our countries and for a global fight. However, even then Slow Food used us as props to elevate their standing. I despise the organization. As for you, for me the best moments were in the fringe, with people who share values and move away from national definitions. I would love to see a meeting of the rest, but that would only be possible if the conversation also includes people from all corners, not only in English-language, and with a real opportunity for people to transport their cheeses from many places for others to try.
Thanks Carlos, and the nice thing about a fringe festival is that people could bring cheese from anywhere in the world.
Carlos, it saddens me to hear about that experience. I had higher expectations for Slow Food. I have never been in Bra but maybe that event has run its course and it's time to move on to some other event. Still, I think we all need to tell Slow Food to move to the 21st century!
Cheese Horse,
You're onto something here, and I'm thankful that you've been able to put words to it. I even attempted to get into the mess of Slow Food in a recent piece of my own, referencing the elitist culture of the organization and the tendency of Slow Food to push producers into supplying that which they've deemed "worthy" to market to their moneyed networks, despite regional limitations. They aren't working to preserve all foodways, but merely those in their narrow framework.
Or at least that's how it appears on the ground here in Missouri, where I've dealt with our local chapter. Having dealt with them on the commerce end a couple times now, I've gotten a burr about it too. The gastronationalism is pretty pervasive when there's so much more worth preserving. They're pushing chicory here when we have fewer and fewer sorghum mills operating in Missouri.
If anything, you went too easy on them.
Hi Cheese Horse, I'll start by saying I'm actually really glad someone is opening this type of dialogue. For a few years now I've been keeping a notebook of thoughts surrounding cheesemaking that just didn't sit well with me. With no appropriate outlet - I thought it was a "just me" scenario stemming from conversations on AOP/DOP status protections, brand censorship, feminism, privilege, gatekeeping & the politics of guerrilla cheesemaking... A real mixed bag that's sparking ideas for a disgruntled cheese themed zine (but don't have the spoons for right now). For now the geographic isolation will hold such things to the username @wheys_of_sedition welcome aboard.
Thank you, I am glad to give voice to what appears to be a shared sentiment. I encourage you to use your voice in whatever way feels right. I am trying to be careful about where I put my energy, and am not sure that posts like this will become regular. But i’m happy to have an outlet.
Kick more balls, please.
Thank you for articulating the nuance at the center of conversations about tradition and authenticity. It's a tricky notion, and there is for sure a line between preserving "old ways" and tipping into the sort of nationalism that can poison the well of even the well-meaning. I was recently targeted by someone claiming to be an Icelandic cheese expert who said I had no business calling what I make "skyr." While I understand folks being protective of their cultural heritage, it does not feel like a productive use of energetic resources to accuse a small producer like myself for co-opting a culinary legacy that has already largely been diluted and mainstreamed by much bigger businesses. The waters are very muddy about this. I do not claim to make anything that would be considered "authentic" by an Icelandic person but neither do I feel that I must change the nomenclature of my product in order to preserve some rather subjective standard of purity. Name protection has done as much harm as it has done good, as it has suffocated innovation and fetishized an old way of doing things that does not necessarily jive with current lifestyles, culture, geopolitics. There is no clear answer, but I'm glad you're delving into these matters with an open heart and mind.
Great thoughts on this institution! I’m really enjoying the audio on your latest posts
We all need to hear this! Long life to Caciocavallo!
Thanks Trevor. Cheese Horse speaks the truth. Keep riding...
Trevor - for me too, that moment with Peter Dixon and Anton Sutterlüty (and Rachel Fritz Schaal, and Sue Miller... men mentioning only men) was the cherished impromptu highlight of this year's Slow Food Cheese in Bra. I couldn't agree more with your criticism (and I hear you, Carlos!). At the same time, the movement and this event allow for those moments to happen, and I feel it is up to all of us to make good use of those opportunities. As co-organizer of a (much smaller) event modelled on Bra n (Cheese Berlin), I also have to acknowledge (and don't get me wrong, this is not an excuse!!) how difficult it is to a) make financial ends meet without being taken over by corporate money, and b) convince cheesemakers to participate, that is to find precious, often non-existing free time and money to do this. Which of course does not, not at all, excuse or even explain the off-putting over-representation and involvement of Italian speaking, male, white individuals of a certain age in Bra. Keep riding and kicking.
Even here in the Philippines, it appears to me (I’m a foreigner, mind you) that the local slow food movement is quite elitist. We enquired about joining but the entry price was too high. I see pictures of their events and they all seem to be well-off older ladies who I imagine have very little to do with growing food themselves, more of a social gathering. Saying that though, they do seem to be doing important work in promoting local food traditions which are sadly dying off. Certainly needs to be less elitist for sure.
Asking with genuine curiosity: wouldn’t a cheese event in Italy naturally have more Italian cheeses represented? As I’m sure an Aussie event would have more Aussie cheeses, etc. I’m curious as to what barriers prevent others from participating in these slow food events?
of course. The main barrier as I see it is economic. If Slow Food wants a REAL international event, they should figure out ways/conditions to have people from all over the world to be able to attend. For example, there are Slow Food chapters in every country. They could figure a way to pay for producers that cannot afford the trip, stand, amount of free samples, expenses, etc... I think the problem is not that there is a cheese event in Italy that presents only Italian cheeses. The problem is that they pretend to be international and open, but they aren't.
All makes sense. Seems like they need to either be more accurate about what they really are, or make more effort to pull in others from outside.